This is our reference itinerary, the one that gives the measure of the country. You leave N'Djamena on the Moussoro road, cross the Sahel and then the Djurab desert to Kalait, climb to the Ounianga lakes, swing east into the Ennedi massif — Archei, Aloba, Terkei, the Oyo labyrinths — then come back down through Arada, Biltine and Abéché.
Three thousand five hundred kilometres, most of it off-road, ten nights under the stars. It is not a comfortable journey: it is the only way to see both sites in a single crossing, and to understand how the Sahara turns into the Sahel.